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bosch table saw manual 4000They are available for both current tools and tools that are no longer on the market. To find the correct manual, just enter the model number (e.g. 1013VSR). We may already have the answer for your questions. Text us here. Mon-Fri: 7:00-19:00 CST. For additional stability, holes are provided in base to bolt the saw to a workbench or stand. Also used to tilt the blade 0 to 45 degrees. Lower portion of scale can be used up to 13 inches. Upper portion of scale is used for cuts beyond 13 inches. It also describes information tools available at eReplacementParts.com. This article describes the differences between power switch and carbon brush failure symptoms. We have attached the link to the manual. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.I have replaced everything in the motor including the field, armature, brushes, speed control, both bearing, and motor housing. What do I do next, what could be causing this problem. Please send me any information you can to help me solve this problem. We do apologize but we were not able to locate the information you requested. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, we recommend calling the manufacturer of the equipment directly. They may be able to provide you with the part number that you need. Once you have this information, please feel free to check back with us for pricing and availability information. Best Regards. I already purchased the replacement, but I have had a heck of a time finding someone with a bearing puller. I am at the mercy of having to purchase one. Can you recommend a puller that will do the job and if need be, future jobs too! Thank you. Philip Thank you for your question. We do sell bearing pullers manufactured by different brands on our website. If you type bearing puller into the search engine on our website, a list will come up for you for you to browse. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day. Regretfully, this motor does not come as a whole unit.http://ameritek.org/userfiles/bosch-power-washer-manual.xml

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If you need help finding the individual pieces, please feel free to contact us so we can find the parts for you. We are looking forward to your response. Thanks, link removed I removed the dust cover and exposed the gear side. Can the motor be removed as a whole unit at this point. I need to replace the bearings. Help. You will want to remove the brushes. Then remove the item number 111, 4 screws, At that point the motor housing and field should come out. Next to make it easier to remove the armature, raise it up towards you. You are going to have to remove the item number 29 Bearing bracket, it also holds the armature in the Gear Housing. To remove the Bearing Bracket, remove the screws item number 32. You should be able to pull the armature out now. -WJA I didn't remove the armature yet but would it be possible to remove the bearing with a puller and replacing it by tapping it on.I might need longer guide pins so I can pull the bracket closer to the housing.It seems that the new housing requires a different size bearing. If that's the case then how do I go about getting the correct bearing? Is that you may have not inserted the 2610996948 Rubber Ring into the housing or on the bearing before assembling the motor. If the bearing is loose in the housing, I would think that should take care of it. If it is too tight. I'll have to do some more thinking on that one. I haven't seen a different motor housing used in these saws. Let us know if it is loose or too tight. -WJA I'll measure it tomorrow but it looked to be 0.1875-0.250. Thanks Now it sparks and it seized.I also noticed that there is a little bit of play in the armature which I do not remember if that is normal. Doesnt the bearings and the brushes serve hold the armature in place? thank you If the armature has any play in it, it will usually rub on the inside of the field. That may be where the black residue is coming from.http://www.euro-financie.sk/userfiles/bosch-power-washer-manual.xml And I hope it didn't get hot enough to breakdown the insulation on the windings on the field or the armature. I would check the 2610996863 gear housing and the 2610018981 motor housing. To see if the bearings on the armature have any movement in either of them. If you have any play where the bearings seat I would think that would be the cause of your problems. The brushes will not keep the armature in place. -WJA I can confirm that there is play in the gear housing, but now the question would be why. The bearings replacements are the same size. Pulling my hair out on this one.lol What about the bearing bracket 2610911566, what part does it have to play. Does it align? THanks again The part number 2610911566 Bearing Bracket will keep the bearing from moving back and forth not side to side. Also make sure you did install the 2610996948 Rubber Ring in the 2610018981 Motor Housing. -WJA The 2610996866 armature has an estimated delivery date to them mid September. And the 2610996867 field has an estimated delivery date to them at the end of September. These are estimated dates they could come in earlier or later then these dates. Not very good news. -WJA I have same problem??? I have same problem??? They should be able to help you with the wiring or send you a wiring diagram. -WJA Could the controlled be bad out of the box? Could the controller be bad out of the box? I changed the control in motor, now it works but I have a lack of power, sparks at brushes contact and pulls 14 to 17 amps ?? brushes are good and so is the comutator ?? anyone knows what the problem could be ?? HELP Thanks:) My friend has the same saw and had reving issues, blew out the speed control unit and then it worked fine. I am now having the same problem, as it sounds the same and everything else seems to be in good condition. I tried blowing it out but didn't solve the prob.http://www.bouwdata.net/evenement/bosch-industrial-hydraulics-manual This saw has barely been used and I am really not pleased with it, that being said I don't want to purchase a new unit that will also fail in due time. Is it safe to just bypass the speed control, or will that cause issues with the saw. I understand I will no longer have the brake. Thanks in advance When the motor is running slow do you hear any sounds like bacon frying. If so you could have a bad armature.What do the brushes look like?Are the clean and shinny or do they look pitted and burned. Hope that helps.Good luck. Tinker Miter Gauge 2610997204. Rip Fence Assembly 2610997206. Hope this helps, -WJA When I turn the blade on it keeps getting interrupted the speed goes up then down, up then down. The brush make a lot of spark more than normal. And the brushes get really hot very quick. I have replaced the speed control and new brushes but I am still have the same speed problem. Anyone have any suggestions? Hope that helps.good luck. Tinker Anymore suggestions of what it might be. Thanks in Advance! The problem with the blue sparks and the speed going up and down along with burning brushes out would suggest that there is a short in the commutator on the armature. You can remove it and a lot of time see the burnt commutator. You will need to have it check at a motor shop. Hope this is a little better help this time.Good luck. Tinker One problem, in using the 2 flat drew drivers to pop the bearing, it disintegrated. Now I have just the most inner hub of the bearing on the armature shaft; not enough to get a bite from the screwdrivers. I'm going to try grinding the remaining ring down to the point I can use a chisel to break it off unless somebody has a better idea. I don't want to nick the shaft but can't think of anything else. I like the saw but I'd like to have a guard. I don't see one on the parts list or the picture. Can you hel? Thanks! If you just need the clear plastic cover it is part number 2610996900.https://www.euralux.com/images/bosch-support-manuals.pdf Hope this helps, -WJA Can anyone help me figure the problem out im outta ideas. Hope that helps.Good luck. Tinker The arbor won't turn under finger pressure. I haven't found this specific issue in the forum and am in the process of disassembly which may reveal the problem but if anyone has some insight it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. It is frozen up solid with a bulge on the side. My new question is do I need to disassemble everything on the blade side to get the armature out. I was going to replace both bearings while I had it apart. Thanks in advance for any help. You really don't need to replace the larger front armature bearing as this almost never goes bad.Make sure your blowing the motor out with compressed are on a regular bases as this keeps saw dust from clogging the cooling vent in the rear of the housing. Hope that helps.Good luck. Tinker I bough if from this web site. I am absolutely certain I wired it correctly. More details: A piece of wood got crooked and bound up for less than a second before I threw the switch off. I've have much worse binds than this on other saws with no problems. But when I pulled the wood out and turned the saw back on, the saw did as I described: It turns backward for an inch and stops. A current-hum sound comes out of the the motor but I don't let that go for more than a half second before flipping the switch off. If I grab the blade and spin it forward as hard as I can and then flip the switch on, it will turn very slowly for several revolutions and sort of clatter until it stops. Those are all the details I can think of. Thanks in advance for any advice. The saw will run in reverse,the saw will run at a high rpm,or run and chatter like your explaining. I still believe you got a bad speed control. The control unit does a number of things 1. it controls the speed brake. 2. It is a RPM limiter.3.It controls the soft start. It sounds like the controller is stuck in soft start and brake at the same time.The only other thing that could cause this is if the brake lead from the field is broken so the controller is not getting a signal from the field and thats whats causing it to be wonky. When I turn it on, the blade turns backward about an inch and then stops. The motor continues to hums like it wants to run. I turn it off immediately. I've read through the advice below and most people think the speed control is the problem. Well.I bought a new speed control and replaced it. It still does exactly the same thing. Does anyone have a Plan B suggestion for me? Did this problem just suddenly appear or did you notice the saw doing other things also.As much information as you can give will greatly increase the chances that someone can pin down what wrong with it.sorry I cant be more helpful. Tinker How to remove a bearing with a vise. WJA I was using it yesterday to make some rip cuts on some trim. I had just started a cut when the power tripped out, the motor was not being overloaded. I re-set the switch on the consumer unit, and when I re-started the saw it now only turns backwards and at approximately half speed!!! I have plugged other tools into same socket without the same result and I have plugged the saw into a different socket with, unfortunately, the same result of backwards and slow. Do you have any ideas what has happened to my saw. What is the warranty issue on the motor, which seems to me to be the issue. How much is a new motor and can I fit it easily. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated before I take it to a repair centre. Kind regards Simon Hope that helps.good luck Tinker The speed control on that saw is the cause of a few problems with the motor on that saw. WJA Your best bet would be to replace the speed control. It is a PC board that controls the motor's speed when under a load and gives you optimum power when needed. Hope that helps, WJA I don't see it. even in the drawings. Wanting to learn as much as I can before something goes wrong! Hope this helps, -WJA Is it the control module? Allen Hope that helps, -WJA Motor is a different story. Right now I have replaced the brushes since the motor did not run correctly, this being only several hours aftergetting it repaired. What could cause this. Sounds like Bosch has major problems with motor units. Need some direction. Thanks We have noticed in the past, problems with the PC board failing. When this happens there are several things that could happen. If your brushes are wearing out and you are seeing arcing from the motor you might also have a defective armature. I hope this helps. WJA This will be the third time. First two were done under warrantee a couple years ago. I like the saw and stand and its cheaper than a new saw so am fixing one more time. I baby this thing by blowing out motor and keeping it on good power. Really a weak motor. thanks I'm not aware that Bosch has published a service bulletin in regards to it.I too have replaced a number of these circuit boards.A lot of these parts comes from China and their quality control seems to be up and down on stuff like this.Sorry I can't give you better information. If so how is the shaft secured to turn the nut?Is the nut left or right thread?Or does the bearing on the opposite side have to be pulled to enable the shaft to slide out?Anybody know? I hope this is what you where asking. Good luck Read the response below, but can't find those pins or clips anywhere.Thanks, Scott On page B item number 56 part number 2610996862 is the Guide Pin and item number 201, part number 2610992380 is the C-Clip, and item number 46, part number 2610996874 is the lever. These should be the parts that caroj59 is speaking of in his post. -WJA. Click Here to see full review of the TS2000, including a short video of it in action. NewWoodworker.com is hearing from a growing number of woodworkers for whom shop space is small and often shared with other family needs. For them, mobility and storage capabilities of power tools are important considerations. The fit and finish is first rate, showing quality manufacturing of the parts and accurate assembly. All moveable parts and settings operated smoothly and predictably right out of the box. The locking handles on the table extension, fence and bevel control are easy to use and lock securely. As expected, the manual includes English, French and Spanish translations but for some reason, and we hope a temporary one, it was decided to inter-mix the languages through munch of the manual. Though initially confusing, this arrangement is consistent. Once this layout is recognized, using the manual becomes relatively easy. The small amount of assembly required is clearly described but more importantly, procedures for adjusting and aligning the saws major components are described and illustrated exceptionally well. The templates for the rip fence are particularly important as they show where to safely drill holes for the fasteners without damaging or interfering with the locking mechanism that runs through it. Click image to enlarge Blade parallelism and bevel stops are adjustable from the outside of the saws case. Even the splitter assembly can be aligned with the blade and made square to the table from the top of the saw. What a concept! The Bosch 4000 was aligned very well but I was able to refine the blade parallelism even more using my dial indicator, and do it more easily than on any other saw I have aligned. The motor features soft start technology and Bosch's' Constant Response circuitry that senses load and automatically applies more power to maintain blade speed.Click image to enlarge This is a direct drive design that uses no belts that could wear out or break. As with any table saw, some dust comes over the top of the blade but even that seems to be reduced by the effectiveness of the shroud system. Dust collection remains effective without having to add homemade covers or bags beneath the saw. Click image to enlarge Flip it up to start the saw, push it down to shut the motor off. The switch also has the customary removable locking key though on the Bosch 4000 it does not tend to fall out on it's own to never be seen again. The switch also has provisions for inserting a padlock to further secure the switch from unauthorized use. The height function uses friction on the threads rather than a locking handle to secure the setting. The rate of change in response to turning the hand wheel is well balanced for quick changes without making it difficult to set a specific height. Release the lock and the bevel angle is adjusted by moving the hand wheel and bevel pointer to the desired angle before locking it with the lever. This system seemed like it could be awkward but in use it proved fast, accurate and simple. Click image to enlarge This is probably due in large part to the dust-collecting shroud but also the uncomplicated but effective design of the under-table mechanisms. The underside of the table features an extensive network of ribs and gussets that insure the table remains flat and solid. Both are very accurate. Click image to enlarge Lift the lever towards you and the extension can be adjusted. Push the lever back down and it locks securely. Simple and effective. The line of numbers closest to the operator corresponds to the fence cursor, the rear line to the indicator mounted on the table edge, used to set wider rip cuts with the fence secured on the extension. When the table extension is moved, the blade to fence distance is accurately shown by the table-mounted indicator. During setup and use, I found these indicators and scales to be very accurate. These are not T-style slots but fit the included miter gauge reasonably well. We also were able to fit after market miter gauges to the table slots very closely because slot width is very consistent over their length. Click image to enlarge This is a quick way to begin positioning work pieces for precise cuts. The fence locks on both the front and back ends, operated by a single lever. Adjustments are provided for the locking tension and to align the fence so it is truly parallel to the miter slot. Positive, adjustable stops are provided at 0 and 45-degrees left and right. The spindle lock is activated by lifting a lever located under the throat plate Click image to enlarge This is a remarkably simple and effective way to eliminate finding a second wrench or trying to hold the blade by wedging a piece of wood between it and the table. With it's components stored on board, the Bosch 4000 itself weighs in at 56 LBS. Combined with the Gravity-Rise TM stand total weight climbs to 109 LBS but feels far lighter when moved, set up or raised into the stowed configuration thanks to the clever use of leverage and balance. Free-standing work supports were needed only for larger work pieces that would also require additional support when cut on my full-sized table saw as well. Vibration is virtually non-existent, the table is very stable and cutting ability is virtually indistinguishable from that of contractor-style saws I have used. Material feed rate on the Bosch 4000 might be a bit slower than on a higher-powered machine but the real difference is small and not a concern unless woodworking is a race in your shop. Keep a clean, sharp blade on the Bosch 4000, as you should on any saw for safety and performance, and it works just fine. Not having the large motor hanging on the same apparatus is certainly a factor. The extraordinarily small amount of space needed for storage can easily free up valuable shop space needed for other woodworking operations and make returning the work space to other duties a fast and simple task. Privacy Statement. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Carbide-Tipped Blade (1) SquareLock Rip Fence (1) Miter Gauge (1) Smart Guard System (1) Push Stick (1) Throat Plate Insert (1) Multi-Function Blade Wrench (1) Adjustment Wrench Carbide-Tipped Blade, (1) SquareLock Rip Fence, (1) Auxiliary Fence for Narrow Workpieces, (1) Miter Gauge, (1) Smart Guard System, (1) Push Stick, (1) Throat Plate Insert, (1) Multi-Function Blade Wrench, (1) Adjustment Wrench Work site Table Saw with Gravity Rise Wheeled Stand delivers both professional rip capacity and outstanding portability for a tool that can get the job done, wherever it is. The powerful 15 Amp saw delivers 4. 0 max HP for outstanding productivity. It also incorporates soft start circuitry for smooth but quick ramp up to the operating Speed to manage the intensity of motor start up and minimize the possibility of tripping a circuit breaker. It includes constant response circuitry to help maintain Speed under load, and overload protection. The square lock rip fence is engineered for maximum trueness and great ease of use, with the fence able to easily glide along the rail for one handed operation. The lighter GTA47W gravity rise wheeled stand has 8 In.It is job site ready with heavy duty construction. The smart guard system is the first modular table saw blade guard, featuring a three position adjustable riving knife, anti kickback pawls and non obstructed view barrier guard assembly. The table saw provides a 29 In.Carbide-Tipped Blade (1) SquareLock Rip Fence (1) Miter Gauge (1) Smart Guard System (1) Push Stick (1) Throat Plate Insert (1) Multi-Function Blade Wrench (1) Adjustment WrenchAmazon calculates a product’s star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers, and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness. Please try again later. Daniel W. Skarke 4.0 out of 5 stars Once adjusted though, it is a fine piece of engineering. What I like best is that the saw is built for the job site. It is extremely beefy, but no too heavy. In my opinion, it strikes a nice balance. Its cart stand is the best in the industry, bar none. Once adjusted, the saw returns to its settings extremely well. It is obviously built for the long haul, and should last a contractor many years. I would definitely purchase this saw again. Now with the things that I wish were better. First, adjusting the blade for parallel is just plain hard. Mine was out from the factory by 4 thousandths. It is a trial and error process, and the instructions suck. Here's what to do: 1. Loosen the four screws indicated in the instructions. Starting from behind the saw, center the blade housing in the rear left to right as best you can, then tighten one screw not quite snug (you want the housing to rotate on this screw when you adjust the front). Next move to the front of the saw and loosen the lock lever for blade angle adjustment (the housing won't move unless you do). Now, begin experimenting with holding the housing at 90 degrees with one hand while sliding the housing back and forth with the other until square. When you think that you are close, lightly tighten one of the front housing screws. Check for parallel (look for videos on how to check a table saw blade for parallel), then tighten the blade angle adjustment lever. With these screws and the lever tight and locked, check again for parallel. Next, the rip fence is pretty hard to adjust also, and mine had a few thousandths of a bow, but that bow is way within industry standard for a portable saw. Here's what you do: First, check it for parallel, you might get lucky. (On a side note, there is a fine line between how tight to set the locking arm adjustment screw with this rip fence. Too tight, and when you lock it, you'll loose the self-adjustment feature, too loose isn't good either. Adjust the screw (on the rear of the fence), to where the fence self aligns while still getting tight) If you are like me, mine was 15 thousandths out, then unlock the locking handle and loosen the two screws on top closest to you in THIS ORDER. Loosen the screw closest to the lock handle first, and for a few turns. Next, loosen the screw that is about 6 inches away toward the middle just enough to where the fence will rotate on this screw, but not so much as to be sloppy. Begin experimenting. Pivot the fence back and forth, running your measuring device up and down the fence until you get pretty close. Lock handle and checking for parallel. Again and again. When you finally get pretty close to parallel, then lock the lever and experiment with locking both screws. If it doesn't move and you are within a few thousandths, then voila, you are done with adjusting the blade and rip fence for parallel. The other adjustments are straight forward, and once set up, THIS IS A GREAT SAW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck, hope this review helpsI used the saw and stand a lot for the 1 week I've had it. Overall the saw works well, dado blades are easily interchangeable, and it's surprising quiet. However, the stand base bent on me today. I had it passively mounted in the rear of my enclosed 7x16 trailer. Opened the door this morning after arriving at the job site and it had sunken over. I thought maybe it had come out of the mount I made, but sadly that was not the case. The weak point of this rolling stand is the base where all the weight sits. I really like the Bosch rolling miter saw stand, which is what convinced me to buy this setup. When you compare the miter saw to this table saw, it's a night and day difference. The miter saw from Bosch has thicker and larger diameter metal tubing. It clearly weights more, but it's on wheels, and has yet to show any fatigue from constant use. The real kicker. I just through the massive box it came in away yesterday, lol, seriously how am I suppose to ship this back. I plan on returning this for something that isn't engineered to minimum specs. Bosch, you almost had me switched over, but it looks like I'll have to go back to Dewalt.The first time I bough it, it lasted 2 years before I started to have issues. The motor had seized up but I didn't take the best care of it and it had other issues that were my fault so I thought nothing of it. I overall liked the saw and was happy to buy another one to replace it. So two months ago I received the new saw and the motor just seized up again. This time the saw was in great condition and kept indoors where no bad weather had touched it. I used a shop vac while sawing to keep down dust as well and cleaned it out when I could. I did some research and found that one of the ball bearings on the motors causes issues (a forum post from 2013). I figure the bearings have been improved so that is probably not the issue. I went ahead and took the motor casing off and immediately saw the bearing was shredded and won't spin. Since I still had my old broken saw, I decided to open it up as well and see if I could use that bearing to replace it and get it working again, only to find out that bearing had exploded as well. I am not 100 sure why Bosh uses UNSEALED bearings in their motors, especially since they don't fully encase the saw blade to prevent dust from getting to the motor as efficiently. Either way, and industrial machine shouldn't have a bearing crap out in 2 months. Outside of that issue, I liked the saw, although the fence could be a little wobbly from time to time. Now that DeWalt added wheels to their contractor saw, I decided to give that a try and post a review down the road for that to see if it is better.I upgraded to the 4100 despite being able to repair the motor on the old saw. I’m sure this saw will give me another 15 years of ripping.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Su motor es potente y no hace mucho ruido, muy comoda su transportacion y uso. Esteticamente elegante y agradable a la vista. Con un diseno que impone calidad y confianza. 100 recomendable sobre todo el costo-beneficioSorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again La mia requirio calibracion antes del primer uso. Las unicas contras son la guia longitudinal que se atasca un poco en los rieles, pero es algo menor, y la potencia del motor es superior en algunas de las sierras de la competencia.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Buena marca. Compren este modelo, muy bueno. Solo cuiden el precio porque este equipo lo pueden encontrar mucho mas abarato en otros tiendas. La ventaja de comprarlo en Amazon, es que te lo ponen en la puerta de tu casa. O sea, pagas caro el flete pero vale la pena. Ya solamente armas y a trabajar.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Create a personal account on the Bosch registration page.To find the right user manual, simply enter the part number of your tool (located on the nameplate). You can unsubscribe at anytime.