diamondback wildwood bike owners manual

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diamondback wildwood bike owners manualIt’s hard to believe that it’s already been a year. Page 3 ContentsThe Mis- for type of. Page 5 3Page 7 Mission 3 ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 8 Mission 2 ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 9 Mission 1 ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 10 All Mountain continued. Page 11 XSL Trail ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 12 XSL ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 13 Coil Ex ALL MOUNTAIN. Page 14 Steven Bafus by Ben TobinPage 15 Assault DIRT JUMPING HARDTAIL. Page 16 All Mountain HardtailPage 17 Response Comp ALL MOUNTAIN HARDTAIL. Page 19 Response ALL MOUNTAIN HARDTAILYou’re simple, practical and resource- Recreation models as your next mountain bike. Page 21 Topanga MOUNTAIN RECREATION. Page 24 DBR RoadPage 25 First Rate Mortgage Team. Diamondback Racing proudly sponsors the First Rate Mortgage. Cycling Team, based right here in Seattle, Washington. Page 26 Podium 5 HIGH PERFORMANCE ROAD. Page 27 Podium 4 HIGH PERFORMANCE ROAD. Page 28 Podium 3 HIGH PERFORMANCE ROAD. Page 29 Podium 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE ROADPage 30 Women’s Specific DBR RoadPage 31 Zelos WOMEN’S SPECIFIC DBR ROAD. Page 32 Flat Bar RoadThe Century. Page 33 W! is emblematic of women’s enthusiasm for cycling,Kalos WOMEN’S. Page 34 CommuterPage 35 Transporter COMMUTER. Page 36 HybridPage 37 Menona HYBRID. Page 38 Maravista HYBRID. Page 39 Edgewood HYBRIDPage 41 Wildwood Deluxe COMFORT. Page 42 Wildwood COMFORTPage 47 Della Cruz 2.0 CRUISER. Page 49 Blue (M)Page 51 Kids Cruiser. If stylish genes are hereditary in your family, consider also passing whole lot of style.Page 55 Octane 24 JUNIOR MOUNTAIN. MTN 24? (wheels). Page 56 Octane 20 JUNIOR MOUNTAIN. It’s your choice: you can get your kids off to a healthy start by getting with quality. Page 58 RM 20 YOUTH SIDEWALK. Page 62 SpecificationsModel: Response Topanga Sorrento Peak Outlook Podium 5. Page 64 SpecificationsModel: Wildwood Deluxe Wildwood Wildwood Citi Wildwood Tandem.Page 67 Bicycle Limited Warranty DIAMONDBACK bicycles are distributed by Raleigh America, Inc.Page 68 6004Authorized Diamondback.

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Check front brake is connected to right hand lever. Check that customer can reach the brake lever comfortably. 9 Demonstrate effectiveness of braking system to customer and explain the danger of pitch-over, especially if the brakes are allowed to lock. 10 Check that the gears change cleanly and adjust as necessary. 11 Show customer how to change gear and explain that low gears should be used for climbing hills, middle gears for the flat and high gears for downhill. 2 14 Full suspension bikes: sit customer on saddle and demonstrate how to adjust the rear suspension, and then the front. Check that the bike is level when the whole weight of the customer is placed on the saddle. 15 Check that any extra-cost equipment or any accessories mounted on the bike before purchase are correctly fitted and safe. Adjust brake lever reach to suit individual customer. Explain to parents and children that the use of garage air lines is dangerous. 19 Frame Numbers (To be recorded by. PDI mechanic). See page 4 for location. 20 Explain the Diamondback guarantee and servicing arrangements to the customer and ensure that he or she is happy with everything before signing off below. 21 Check chainwheel and crank bolt torque is 42-45Nm. Contents 3. Know Your Bike Quick Assembly Guide 8. Personal Safety 11. Steering, headsets and Handlebars 13. Pedals 14. Quick Release Wheels 15. Please read these instructions carefully. There are different European Standards for bicycles depending on how the bicycle is intended to be used. For more detailed information and tips, including a comprehensive guide to care and maintenance we recommend you read the owners guide in detail. You can check the table below what type of riding your bicycle has been designed for. Diamondback bikes are fully adjusted and checked over at the factory. The handlebars may be removed or assembled in the bike and turned through 90 degrees. is a relatively simple operation to re-assemble these parts, however if you do not feel competent to do this you should ask someone who is, as it is important that these simple tasks are done correctly for the integral safety of the bike. If in doubt consult a qualified mechanic or cycle dealer. Not for off road or rough terrain 120 Kg (19 stone) BS: EN 14766 Mountain Bikes Off road, rough terrain, cycle tracks or road 120 Kg (19 stone) BS: EN 14781 Racing Bikes High Speed amateur use on public roads Not for off road or rough terrain. 120 Kg (19 stone) Unpacking Please remove all packaging very carefully, especially if using a knife or sharp blade. Take care not to scratch any of the parts of the bike or slash the tyres. We suggest that you keep hold of the carton in case you need to return the bike. V-style brake 12. Disc brake 13. Rear suspension unit 14. Some of these items are specified in the British Standard covering bicycles but many others are Diamondback recommendations. In addition, some BMX bikes have a different arrangement. Stem Type (Single Bolt) Threadless Type (3 Bolts) Saddle adjustment BMX Type A To adjust the saddle height, loosen the clamp bolt using an Allen key, spanner or the quick release lever and adjust the seat post to the required height. Adjust the height of the saddle so that when cycling along, your leg will be slightly bent with the pedal at its lowest point. B 1 Remove the plastic cap (if present) from the top of the handlebar stem cap and loosen the bolt using the 6mm allen key. 1 Using an allen key, loosen the 2 sides bolts (A) followed by top bolt (B) and turn the handlebar through 90 degrees. 2 Turn the handlebar and set at 90 degrees to the front wheel. Set at the required height and re-tighten the bolt. 2 Re-tighten all bolts fully so there is no movement whatsoever and the handlebars are securely fixed. 1 Loosen top nut, turn the handlebar and set at 90 degrees to the front wheel. Important: When altering the height of the saddle, you must not pull the seat post out further than the limit mark. 2 Re-tighten the nut fully so there is no movement. Important: Do not position the stem outside the limit mark. There are two ways of securing the front wheel, (A) Nutted Axle and (B) Quick Release arrangement. With the spring in place under the head of the nut, loosely screw the nut on to the skewer.Open and close the QR lever with one hand while gradually tightening the adjusting nut with the other until you feel resistance in the lever when the lever is pointing away from the hub. This minimises the chances of it getting released accidentally. Disc brakes use 2 pads and these are usually kept in place with packing pieces during transit. Remove the packaging from between the disc pads making sure that the pads are not displaced. Models with Disc Brakes It is better if the bike is upside down when fitting a disc brake wheel. Fit the wheel in place with the rotor plate between the 2 pads. Follow previous instructions for tightening quick release and wheel nuts. Important: Ensure the nuts and quick release are fully tightened. L R For safety reasons it is very important that these are fitted correctly as the photograph below. Depending on the type supplied, the front reflector may be fitted to the handlebar or fork and the rear fitted to the seat post or rear bridge (see photos below). 2 Identify left and right cranks. Tighten pedal by hand into the correct crank. Note the correct rotation. 3 Tighten the pedals by hand, then using a spanner fully tighten in the correct rotation. Before you ride check the following: 1 Tyres are inflated to the recommended pressure. 2 Brakes are functioning properly. 3 Axle nuts or quick release levers are tightened. 4 Handlebar bolt(s) is tightened. 5 Seat bolt is tightened. Keep your reflectors clean CYCLISTS MUST BE SEEN. Ensure pedal is tight up against the crank when fully tightened THE REFLECTORS FITTED TO YOUR NEW BIKE ARE A LEGAL REQUIREMENT, SUPPLIED FOR YOUR SAFETY.Fit the mudguard bracket behind the fork. Ensure all screws are tightened. There’s no doubt that a certain amount of equipment can improve cycling safety, particularly at night. On the other hand, however much equipment you have, there’s no substitute for cycling skills - see page 10 - and a full awareness of other traffic. When you buy a cycle helmet, it’s important to check that it’s manufactured to a proper standard. The minimum legal requirement for any helmet sold in the UK and the rest of Europe is that they are CE certified and conform to the EN1078:1997 European Standard. Once a helmet has been in an accident, it?must be replaced. The shell may have been weakened and the liner will be less able to absorb shocks. Remember that some manufacturers offer free replacement of crash-damaged helmets. LIGHTS Fitting for suspension forks. 8 As for lights, you must have a front and rear light marked to show that they comply with British Standard. Legally, you must not fit a flashing light to a bike, though you can fit one to your clothing if you wish to. Only a few LED lights produce enough light to comply with the British Standard, even when they’re in the non-flashing mode. This means they can only be used as a supplement to British Standard lights and mustn’t be used on their own. If you find yourself fitting new batteries too often, consider fitting rechargeable lights or a dynamo. Your Diamondback Retailer will advise. Select one that feels comfortable and secure, that fits well down on your forehead and which has straps that lie well away from your ears. Check frequently that your lights are as bright as they should be. The batteries in particular need changing frequently, so keep spares at home and at work. When replacing bulbs, especially halogen ones, don’t touch the glass at all. Once you’ve got a good fit, adjust the straps carefully, making sure that the adjusters sit well below the ears and don’t get twisted. Many helmets also have an adjustable nape strap at the back of the helmet. Follow manufacturers’ instructions. Good lighting should be backed up by other visibility aids. If a bright yellow reflective jersey is too much for you, wear a reflective belt, preferably one that goes round waist and shoulders. They’re very effective at letting motorists know you’re on the road. To get a good fit, helmets have either an exterior adjuster, simple pads or inflatable side pieces. Once adjusted, hold the helmet upside down with the straps out of the way to make it easier to put on. You can also fit reflective material to the bike itself. Large areas are best but even small strips make you more visible. It’ll stick better if you clean any grease or oil off the frame before fitting. Try to blend the reflective areas in with the shape of the bike. LED bike lights usually have a clip so you can attach them to your clothing. There is also a switch to select a steady or a flashing light. They should only be fitted as a back-up to a legal light, or to a dynamo. Most LED lights have a closefitting plastic case. To fit new batteries, find the notch in the case and prise the two halves apart with a screwdriver. There is no bulb as such. When putting the case back together, take care to avoid damaging or moving the rubber seal. When conditions are really bad or an area is particularly congested be prepared to walk your bike around roundabouts and difficult right turns. WARNING: There is a risk of injury to the rider and to others if all necessary repairs and adjustments are not made. Take every precaution to ensure safe riding. RIDING IN THE DARK BEFORE RIDING Again, take extra care in the dark. Make sure your signals are in good time, so motorists are aware of your intentions. If you have any problems refer them to your Diamondback Retailer at once.BAHETH24AQARI.COM/ckfinder/userfiles/files/compaq-evo-n200-manual.pdf Make sure you are able to use your gears and brakes effectively and that you can handle your bicycle safely in traffic. To?familiarise yourself with the many rules of the road, Diamondback recommend you obtain a current copy of the Highway Code, available from Post Offices and most good bookshops. Parents are urged not to let their children onto busy roads until they are experienced cyclists. Indeed, all new or inexperienced cyclists are strongly recommended to take a training course in cycling. Details may be obtained from schools, council offices or Police stations. Make sure you can see and be seen - front and rear lights, a rear reflector, pedal and wheel reflectors are legal requirements. They should conform to British Standard BS?6102. Carry spare bulbs and batteries if needed. Light coloured and reflective clothing will help you to be seen - ask to see the range stocked by your Diamondback Retailer. They distract your attention from the traffic around you and prevent you from hearing approaching danger. AFTER YOUR FIRST FEW RIDES All the nuts and bolts on your bicycle bed-down in the first few weeks of use, we recommend you regularly check your bike as per the maintenance section on page 33. ANTICIPATION The most important general riding skills you need to develop are keeping track of what other road users are doing and working out what they are going to do next. That way you can position yourself safely on the road and let them know, by your road position, what you are going to do next. Do not follow too closely behind other road vehicles or other cyclists and avoid riding up the inside of traffic queues. Make use of “cycle lanes” where they are provided. Always concentrate and keep a good grip on the handlebars at all time in case you suddenly need to steer out of harms way. RIDING IN BAD WEATHER Always take extra care when the weather is wet, foggy, windy or icy. Wear warm waterproof clothing - in bright, reflective colours if possible. Ride slowly and brake early, as stopping distances can be doubled or trebled. Sudden braking could lead to skidding on hazards such as mud, gravel, snow, etc. On some bikes, you can also adjust the height of the handlebars. Don’t forget that altering the angle of an adjustable stem also alters the height of the handlebars. It’s also a good thing to have a slight bend at the elbow to help absorb road shocks. In fact, most mountain bikes are designed to provide the correct back angle and arm reach for the majority of riders. If you have a problem getting comfortable, consult your Diamondback Retailer about altering the height of the handlebars or even fitting different ones. Always check the alignment of the handlebar stem with the front wheel, if you move anything else. Steering play Too loose To check the steering bearings, pull the front brake on and wrap your fingers round the top steering bearing. Then try to push the bike gently backwards and forwards, keeping the back wheel on the ground. If you can feel of hear any movement the headset needs to be tightened. Steering play Too Tight While there should be no play in the steering there should be no stiffness either. This can be checked by lifting the front of the bike so that the wheel is off the ground and turning the handlebar with a finger. The wheel should move smoothly right and left without sticking. For adjustment of steering bearings see the appropriate section on the next page. If there’s any free play in the steering bearings, you’ll get brake judder, judder over bumps and steering wobble as well. Tight steering may also be a problem. These are potentially dangerous so if you don’t feel confident about making the adjustment, take the bike to your Diamondback Retailer. As part of the 21 point Safety Check, make sure the stem clamp bolts and the handlebar clamp bolts are all tight enough to prevent the handlebars moving. If the steering is too loose adjust the bearings by tightening the top screw (B) until you can no longer feel any movement. To adjust for tight steering undo the top bolt slightly until the steering moves freely. You may need to repeat the above process until the adjustment is correct. First undo the top head locknut (C) using a suitable spanner. To correct loose steering turn the screwed race clockwise slightly until there is no play. To relieve tight steering, turn the screwed race (D) anti-clockwise a little. Once adjusted re-tighten the top head locknut and test the steering. You may need to repeat the above procedure until the adjustment is correct. Height Limit Mark Some models are fitted with a continental design of stem. Here, you remove the rubber bung at the top to reveal a socket-headed bolt, then undo the bolt a few turns. Once it’s loose, raise or lower the handlebars by holding the front wheel between your legs and twisting the handlebars from side to side. Don’t pull it out any further than the limit mark shown by the arrow in the picture. Next, re-tighten the bolt and fit the rubber bung. Then, hold the wheel between your legs and check that the handlebars won’t twist in the frame. Check also that the handlebar clamp is tight. One pedal is marked L for the left hand crank and the other R for the right hand crank. Don’t try to fit them the wrong way round. Don’t underestimate the importance of the pedals. If they’re not tight enough, if the toe clips are loose, if the toe straps are missing or if the pedals don’t turn smoothly, it’s only too easy to lose control.But when fitting the L pedal, you turn it anti-clockwise. To finish the job off or as part of your regular safety check, tighten both pedals with an open-ended spanner. 3 Toe clips are fitted to prevent your foot sliding off the pedal as well as to hold it in the correct position. That makes them a safety device as well as a vital part of efficient cycling.BAHETH24CARS.COM/ckfinder/userfiles/files/compaq-evo-n160-manual.pdf It’ll take practice before you can slip into them automatically. This will ensure that all nuts and bolts are tightened using the correct amount of force, so preventing damage to components. Before operating the quick release, open up the distance between the brake pads so that the tyre doesn’t get stuck between them. To do this on V-style brakes, press the brake pads onto the rim with one hand while you pull the metal cable pipe away from the brake arm with the other. With other cantilevers, you also squeeze the brake pads together but then you slip the end of the short cable out of the brake arm. Wheel centring If you’re not sure that you’ve refitted the wheels correctly, or wonder if you’ve got them tight enough, consult your Diamondback Retailer. 1 2 To remove the wheels, pull the quick release lever, giving the tyre a bang with your palm to encourage it to drop right out. If the wheel doesn’t drop out easily, undo the nut a few turns to release it from the safety recess in the fork end. 14 To refit, insert the axle into the forks or the rear of the frame. Then use your thumbs to centre the wheel rim. Finally, use the palm of your hand to press the quick release lever as close as possible to the frame or the forks. 3 When closed, the quick release lever must sit alongside the fork blade at the front and along the chainstay at the back. When refitting wheels, make sure you centralise them in the frame. With the front wheel, the wheel rim must be an equal distance from the top of each fork blade. At the back, the rim must be an equal distance from both chainstays. If you hear a rubbing noise after refitting the wheel, check again to see if you’ve centred the wheel correctly. Note: The rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain. The best starting point is to set the saddle height so that you can get the ball of your foot on the ground while you’re sitting on the saddle. When you have to raise the saddle, don’t lift it any higher than the limit mark. There’s a danger that the seat post will break or fall out of the frame if you do. Fit a longer seat post or buy a bigger bike if you need the saddle higher than allowed by the limit mark. There is also a fore-and-aft adjustment but you must only move the saddle to another position along the parallel section of the saddle wire, marked by the arrows below. Don’t try to force the saddle any further in either direction or you’ll break the saddle clip. Be careful also when tightening the bolt under the saddle or you’ll damage the alloy threads. Start with the saddle right in the middle of the range of adjustment and try a short ride. The main thing is to find an easy and comfortable reach to the handlebar grips. But this also controls the angle of your body, so experiment by moving the saddle a centimetre at a time until you find the best combination. Check also that you’ve got a good view of the road ahead, without cranking your head back at an uncomfortable angle. As for saddle angle, keep it moreor-less parallel to the ground. If your bike is fitted with a shockpost that moves up and down to absorb bumps, adjust the saddle a little higher than normal to allow for your own weight. If you find that the shock post hits the bottom of its travel quite often, even after adjusting it, your Diamondback Retailer will supply you with a stronger spring, which should stop that happening. Different springs are easy to fit - just undo the adjustment screw all the way. Saddle height adjustment 1 2 3 4 To alter saddle height, undo the seat post clamp bolt at least two turns. Then work the saddle from side to side as you lift it up or push it down. Finally, check that the nose of the saddle is in line with the top tube and re-tighten the clamp bolt. A quick release seat post clamp must be tight enough to hold the seat post in place on the roughest terrain. With the quick release lever fully open, tighten the knurled nut as far as you can with your fingers, then undo it one full turn. It should be easy to move at first, then harder as the lever gets nearer to the frame, then easier just before it hits the frame. Turn the knurled nut anti-clockwise if the lever is too tight to reach the frame and the other way if it’s too loose. When altering the height of the saddle, you must not pull the seat post out any further than the limit mark. If?you do, there’s a danger that the seat post will either break or fall out of the frame when riding over rough terrain. Tighten the bolt and test the new position. 3 When using a shock post, set saddle height a little above normal, then check how far it sinks with your full weight on it. If it drops more or less than half an inch, adjust the pre-loading to make sure you get the full comfort benefits. To adjust the pre-loading, undo the clamp bolt and pull the shock post right out of the frame. If you want the saddle to sag more, turn the adjuster two turns clockwise. If you want it to sink less, try two turns anti-clockwise. Clip type saddle 4 To adjust the saddle fore-and-aft, undo one of the large nuts about two turns, then tap the saddle backwards or forwards with your hand. If you want to alter the angle, undo both nuts at least two turns and click the saddle into the new position. Riding position Adjust the height of the saddle so that when cycling along, your leg will be slightly bent with the pedal at its lowest point. If the first time you use this riding position you feel that the muscles in the back of your leg are too stretched, lower the saddle a few millimetres at a time until you feel comfortable. Check that with the saddle in this position you can place the ball of your foot comfortably on the ground while sitting on the bicycle. This applies to most normal cycle use. If you have to pull the lever more than halfway to the handlebars, the cable should be tightened.Next, check that the brake pads are aligned with the wheel rim and are not worn. If they’re not aligned correctly or need changing, see page 19. If one of the wheels starts to rub against the brake pads after making any of these adjustments, check that it’s correctly centred in the frame and that the brake pads are centred on the wheel rim. If the wheels and brakes are correctly centred, the wheels may be slightly buckled and you should ask your Diamondback Retailer to check this point. Most models are fitted with powerful long arm cantilever brakes, called V-brakes. If they don’t seem to be stopping the bike as quickly as they should, check the alignment and condition of the brake pads and the position of the brake arms - see page 20. If you have problems, consult your Diamondback Retailer. Tightening the cable adjuster To tighten the cable, undo the lock nut arrowed in the picture. Then undo the knurled adjuster two turns anti-clockwise and test. If the brakes are OK, retighten the lock nut but for the sake of safety, always leave three full threads in the brake. Ensure slots are not all in line in order to keep cable secure. This should be checked regularly. Bike braking systems are so powerful that it’s easy to lock the wheels and take a flyer over the handlebars. So before your first ride, stand next to your bike and push it backwards and forwards, gently applying the brakes so that you get an idea of the braking forces involved. Always apply the rear brake a fraction of a second ahead of the front brake, especially in the wet. Then ride round an empty car park for a while, constantly using the brakes so that you get used to the amount of force needed to pull up smartly, without skidding or locking the wheels. Again, this is particularly important in the wet. On a wet road, it takes about 60 longer for bikes and most other vehicles to stop. So when it’s wet, give everything else on the road a wider berth and be very careful when threading through traffic. Above all, don’t snatch at the brakes - apply them well before you have to stop and give the pads a chance to wipe the rims dry. As the pads wear down, check they don’t overlap onto the tyre. Check also that curved pads follow the curve of the rim. Now a check on pad wear. If?there’s no wear line, change the pads when they reach 2 mm from the bottom of the grooves, as on the back two pads. V-style brakes are very efficient and only need a very light pull on the lever when properly adjusted. If you have to reach too far for the brake levers, you can bring them closer to the handlebars with a hexagon key or Philips screwdriver. For maximum braking power, check pad alignment and wear. Check also that there’s an equal gap between the pad and the rim on either side. If there isn’t, adjust the gap using the tiny adjuster screws at the pivots. New rim On most bicycles the brakes work by pressing on the wheel rim. This gradually wears the rim wall away. If the rim wall gets too thin it may fail allowing the tyre to come off the rim - which is potentially dangerous. Worn rim To prevent this occurring there are two ways of checking when a rim has come to the end of it’s useful life and should be changed: A “wear-line” on the outside of the rim in the form of a groove. When this groove has been worn away the rim should be changed. A special cavity inside the rim. The rim should be changed when this starts to appear as a slot in the sidewall. During winter, the rims can become very greasy. So to maintain full braking power, clean them with an Extreme Degreaser, if the brakes don’t seem to have their usual bite. New brake pads V-style brakes 1 1 To remove the old pads, try to identify how they’re fixed to the brake arms. Two different designs are shown on the opposite page but once you loosen the fixing bolt, usually low down at the back of the brake arm, you should be able to pull the old pads out quite easily. Although in some cases you’ll find it easier if you remove the wheel first. When fitting the new pads, take a moment to work out how they go. If?the pads are curved, they must follow the curve of the rim. On the other hand, if there’s an arrow on the side of the pads, it must point forwards. And there must be at least 1mm between the top of the pad and the top of the rim, as shown on page 19. When you’ve checked all these points, tighten the fixing nut but leave it loose enough to allow you to do two more adjustments. The first of these is toe-in. This means that when the brakes are applied, the front of the pad hits the rim before the back does. Then, when the moving wheel rim drags the brake pad forward, the brake arm bends a little. So the rest of the pad reaches the rim smoothly, without juddering or snatch. In other cases, a special gauge is supplied with the pads but it’s often just a matter of eye. Front If there’s no gauge to help you set the toe-in, aim to position each pad so that there’s a 1 to 2 mm gap between the back of the pad and the rim, There’s no need to measure it exactly, so long as the gap is exactly the same both sides. V-style brakes work best when the brake arms are almost upright. If the brakes look wrong or don’t work well, there’’s probably too much inner cable showing between the brake arms. If you suspect this, undo the cable clamp. 2 2 Once you’ve got the toe-in right, pull the brake lever and bring the pads up close to the rim. Then adjust the angle of the pad so that it contacts the rim square on. Finally, tighten the fixing nuts and check all three adjustments. Then make sure that the cable is completely free. Push the brake arms into a more upright position and lightly do up the cable clamp. Check that there’s enough room for the wheel between the pads and tighten the cable clamp again. The second adjustment concerns alignment with the wall of the rim.