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driving manual motorcycleBy using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.Learn why people trust wikiHow This article received 55 testimonials and 100 of readers who voted found it helpful, earning it our reader-approved status.This may seem like a challenge to master, but shifting gears is really a simple process. How you shift gears, however, will depend on whether your motorcycle has a manual transmission or a semi-automatic transmission.The clutch is located in front of the left handgrip. It is responsible for transferring torque from the engine to the transmission. The throttle located on the right hand grip.The gear shift is a bar located in front of the left foot pedal. It is responsible for switching between gears. Practice the following:This only works if you are in neutral or second gear, otherwise, pressing down the gear shift will only take you to a lower gear. The predominant gear pattern for manual motorcycles is one down, and four or five up. Neutral is found between first and second gear. Make sure that you are resting in the neutral position.Start by closing the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way. At the same time, move the gear shift into first gear by pushing downwards on the shifter. Then, slowly apply throttle while releasing the clutch gently until the motorcycle starts to roll slowly. After this point start increasing throttle input and release the clutch all the way. When you have achieved sufficient speed to justify shifting to a higher gear, roll off, (close) the throttle as you squeeze in the clutch. Place the toes of your left foot under the shift peg, lift the peg up as far as it will go. You can continue moving into higher gears by bumping the gear shift upwards more. One bump goes to second, another to third, another to fourth, and so on. NOTE: an experienced rider does not need to operate the clutch to shift up. He simply lifts the shifter lightly with his foot, and then, when he down-blips the throttle, the next higher gear will engage.http://matemotors.com/userfiles/1050-hplc-manual.xml

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Doing this smoothly takes a bit of practice, yet saves shifting time, and also slightly increases the lifetime of the clutch plates.This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website.Press down on the gear shift peg, then release it. Smoothly adjust the clutch and throttle together to match the speed that you are currently traveling.This is a very basic process, as all you have to do is throttle the engine and press down one click on the gear shift. First gear is always found by moving the gear shift down a notch, while the remaining gears can be reached by moving the gear shift upwards. To do this, use the same process of shifting into first gear. Throttle the engine and push the gear shift upwards with your toe. Pushing it one click will move it to 2nd gear, giving it another gear will move it to 3rd, and so on. To slow down and eventually come to a stop, you can downshift into lower gears by pushing down on the gear shift. Always put your bike in neutral when you are stopped. Some motorcycles have a sixth gear. While you’re still holding the clutch, shift into the next gear. Then, slowly release the clutch lever while twisting the throttle. If you are going to shift upward in gear, you'll get a feeling as if something is pulling the bike back; that is the time the gear is at its maximum potential.Just remember to pull the clutch in before you start the bike while in other gears (except neutral). Bring the gear all the way down to the first if you want to accelerate the bike after starting the bike.I have never been on one, but I'm interested in trying. For beginners, it's also good to get a lightweight bike in order to get some confidence riding. Also, it's recommended to not get a brand new one for the first year. Get a brand that is very common in your country, as it will be easier to have it maintained.http://goteneplast.se/files/images/1046a-manual.xmlOr, if you have enough practice, you can brake and stay in the same gear, just be sure to hold down the clutch to prevent the bike from stalling and release it as you throttle after you cross the speedbreaker. Generally, you shouldn't need to shift gears for a speed breaker.Learn to operate all of the controls from muscle memory by “playing” with your motorcycle in a safe environment. You cannot go from first gear to fifth gear by just holding the shift peg up. It must be reset for each shift up, or down. Let it warm up first! Check your rear view mirror from time to time looking for people who don’t see you. Use a little rear brake to stabilize the bike. Using the rear brake at a high speed has very little effect. Sometimes, when a motorcycle stops moving, the “teeth” in the gears line up in a position that makes it impossible to downshift until you ease the clutch out. This means that the clutch must be used to disengage the transmission every time you want to start the motorcycle moving, every time you want stop the motorcycle, and every time you shift, or change gears. Have an escape route planned and glance in your rearview mirror from time to time while waiting on the green light. If something bad happens behind you, escape! If it is making a very low grumble, shift down. If it is whining loudly, shift up. Releasing the clutch quickly, while still in gear, will cause the vehicle to stall (at best) or leap forwards unexpectedly. This article has been viewed 1,410,212 times.Then, roll the throttle toward you to close it completely and press down on the gear shift with your foot. Slowly roll the throttle forward as you release the clutch until the bike begins to roll forward. When you're moving, continue rolling the clutch forward to go faster. Once you reach a high enough speed to switch gears, roll the throttle back and squeeze the clutch. To shift up, use your foot to pull the shift peg up as high as it will go, and to shift down, press down on the shift peg.http://eco-region31.ru/bosch-stud-finder-manual For tips on shifting gears on a semi-automatic transmission, read on! I am going to take the written test for car and cycle license tomorrow, so it was a good refresher course for me.I also loved seeing you actually ride the steps.By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. I am going to take the written test for car and cycle license tomorrow, so it was a good refresher course for me.Please help us continue to provide you with our trusted how-to guides and videos for free by whitelisting wikiHow on your ad blocker. If you really can’t stand to see another ad again, then please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. By pulling the clutch, you are releasing the bike’s engine from its transmission, putting a bike in the neutral (N) mode and be ready to shift gears. When you are driving, you first pull in a clutch with the left hand in order to shift gears and to disengage its rear wheel. Meanwhile, reduce its throttle to prevent your motorbike from jerking because you may have to re-engage its rear wheel. Next, continue your task by using a left foot to shift gears. Do not forget to feather its throttle with a right hand. This will help you much in keeping the bike’s transmission smooth. First step is to pull the clutch all the way in and shift gear down to 1st by your left foot and then release the clutch slowly until the bike moves and then accelerate gently. As the motorcycle increases speed, continue to ease the clutch lever out smoothly and slowly. Most motorcycles operate in a “1 down, 3 up” shifting pattern. Let the clutch out and engage the throttle again. Repeat this process to shift through higher gears. Next, you should use the rear and front brakes slowly. Remember to use the left foot as it can steady your motorbike at the stop while keeping the right foot directly on the ground. If you fail to do so, your motorbike’s engine will be easy to stop working.http://www.decor-ada.com/images/cal-9000-user-manual.pdf When you are used to them, the feeling of mastering these uncontrollable horses is a delusion. Whenever sitting up, you just want to surf. All you need to do is master the clutch lever. Or the bike is moving slowly as you forget to pull the clutch in, that stall the bike. And you’ll be in for a bit of a surprise if you still put the 1st or 2nd gear and release the clutch completely. The same, when you start the bike, always remember the bike is in Neutral position. Ideally, you’ll have your clutch lever pulled in all the way as you brake to a complete stop, which will allow you to downshift seamlessly. However, there are still someone who never been on a manual motorbikes wanna learn to ride it and join the tour with the friends. Here are some tips for the beginners on how to ride a manual motorbikes. Reading these tips before being on the real bikes must be helpful and help to make the beginners more confident. The handbrake, which applies the brakes to the front wheel, is the lever on the right handlebar. Grab the left handlebar, and swing your right leg over the seat. Plant your feet firmly on the ground. Grip the handlebars, clutch lever and brake lever. Make sure you can reach these controls comfortably. Your arms should have a slight bend in the elbow when gripping the handlebars. Switches should be within easy reach of your fingers. Get a feel for the weight of the bike underneath you. Additionally, you should be able to operate the rear shifter without lifting or sliding foot off the peg When you pull the clutch in, you’re releasing the engine from the transmission. This action puts your bike in neutral, allowing you to shift gears. Unlike an “On-Off” switch, you want to gradually and smoothly pull and release the clutch to prevent your bike from stalling. You may have to push down several times. You’ll know you’re in 1st when you don’t feel any more resistance or indication the gears are moving.http://www.holzbau-hoelzl.at/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629daaba227a1---creda-c366e-manual.pdf The pattern is typically 1st gear, neutral, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, and so on. When shifting gears you will see the appropriate number light up on your gauge. As you pull the clutch, reduce the throttle. Reducing the throttle will prevent your bike from jerking as you re-engage the rear wheel. Continue by shifting gears with your left foot. Feather the throttle with your right hand to keep the transmission smooth. Finally, release the clutch, engaging the rear tire. As you let the clutch out and slowly roll the throttle back to pick up a little speed, continue riding in a straight line. When you are ready to stop, pull in the clutch lever, and slowly apply the front and rear brakes simultaneously. Use your left foot to steady the bike at a stop. When you are stopped, put your right foot on the ground. The friction zone is the area of resistance created as the clutch becomes engaged. This area allows for the transfer of power from the engine to the rear wheel. Motorcycle transmissions are sequential, meaning that you have to shift one gear in a consecutive order, whether shifting up or down. It will take some practice to be able to feel and hear when it’s time to shift. The engine will start revving at higher rpms when it’s time to shift. You’ll know you’re in 1st gear when the shift pedal doesn’t click down anymore. You should hear a bit of a clicking noise when in 1st. When you want to start moving faster, pull back on the throttle slightly as you let out the clutch. Check to make sure your neutral light is not on. Repeat this process to shift through higher gears. Pull your clutch in and press down on your shifter. Then let out your clutch. Then, once at a stop, shift down again into 1st. As a general rule, you want to begin braking with your front brake and employ your rear brake after to help you slow and stop. You don’t always need to go all the way into 1st gear. You can downshift into 2nd gear and stop before shifting down to 1st.greenforestsurveys.com/home/~ptow/public_html/ckfinder/userfiles/files/96-yamaha-vmax-600-service-manual.pdf Make sure you aren’t pulling back on the throttle. This is made easy by the fact that the front brake handle is situated so that you have to roll your hand forward to reach it. Start with your left foot, then your right. Riding a motorcycle is not as difficult as people think. DANGER: Riding is a very dangerous activity, so keep that in mind every time you ride and ride within your limits. WARNING: Beginners should not underestimate the risks of riding. Always wear helmets, gloves, jackets and boots. You should practice on an empty parking lot before get on public roads. If there are so many risks, why do people still ride. Because riding is fun. The sense of freedom it gives you is just amazing. It’s like the saying, four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul. These instructions aim to teach the basics of riding a motorcycle for beginners. As long as you follow the steps, these instructions can prepare you to get your license and start riding. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: Get Familiar With the Controls: Primary Controls So let’s get started. First of all, you should get familiar with the controls on a motorcycle. There are five primary controls on motorcycles. In this Instructable, I will be demonstrating on a 2012 Honda CBR 250R, but the controls are universal for most bikes. The throttle is used to control the engine speed and is located on the right hand side of the handlebar. It is just like the gas pedal in a car. When you roll on the throttle, the engine speed will rise and the speed will go up. When you roll off the throttle, the engine speed will fall and the bike will slow down. You can refer to the pictures on top of the page to see the roll on and roll off position. Note: Motorcycles have separated front and rear brakes. The front brake lever is used to activate the front brake and is located on the right hand side of the handlebar in front of the throttle. You can squeeze the lever to use the front brake.http://dabien.co.kr/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629daabc7ecc3---Creda-capri-gas-cooker-manual.pdf WARNING: Similar to braking in a car, do not grab the front brake lever suddenly and tightly. The correct way of using the brake lever is to squeeze it slowly and gradually increase the force. The rear brake lever is used to activate the rear brake of the bike and is located near the right foot position in front of the right side foot peg. Use your right foot to press on the lever to use the rear brake. The clutch lever is used to operate the clutch and is on the left side of the handlebar. The clutch lever acts like the clutch pedal in a manual transmission car as a connection between engine power and rear wheel. Fully squeeze in the clutch lever to cut off power to the rear wheel. The clutch on motorcycles is sequential, meaning that you can’t skip gears. The use of the clutch lever is very critical to control the bike. DANGER: When encountering a situation where you are losing control, immediately pull in the clutch and use brakes. Caution: Similar to driving a manual car, when shifting between lower gears, you should release the clutch slowly. The shift lever is used for shifting and is on the left foot position in front of the left side foot peg. Press up firmly for upshift, and press down firmly for downshift. Note: The shift pattern on motorcycles is 1 down and 5 up. The gear order from down to up is 1-neutral-2-3-4-5-6, as shown in the shift pattern pictures. The dash usually consists of the speedometer, the tachometer and the neutral indicator. The speedometer shows the current speed of the bike in miles per hour. The tachometer shows the current engine speed represented in RPM (revolutions per minute). The neutral indicator will light on when the bike is in neutral. Note: Like in cars, when in neutral, the bike will be able to roll forward and backward. The mirrors help you see what is behind you. The mirrors on motorcycles are convex mirrors, so the object in mirror are closer than they appear.https://buddingheights.org/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629daaca199a3---creda-c461e-manual.pdf WARNING: You will also have blind spots on motorcycles just like in cars, so please check the mirrors and do a shoulder check whenever you need to turn or change lanes. The turn signals indicate turning or changing lanes. Press the turn switch to the left will flash the left turn signal, press to the right will flash the right turn signal and press it inwards will cancel the turn signal. Note: On motorcycles the headlights are always on as daytime running lights. Caution: It is not recommended to use the high beam during the night, because the light can blind other drivers and cause danger. The kill switch is used to shut off the engine and is the red button located on the right hand side of the handlebar. Caution: Some people prefer to use the key to turn off the bike, but you should have the habit of using the kill switch, because in an emergency situation, use the kill switch is a faster and more effective way to kill the power. The starter button is used to start the bike, and is located under the kill switch. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 3: Start the Bike Now that you are familiar with the controls, it is time to start the bike. First turn the key to ON position and you should see the dash lights up. Then find the neutral gear between the first and second gear. Pull the clutch in, use left foot to push the shift lever all the way down, then push it slightly up, and you should see the green “N” lights up in the dash, which means the bike is now in neutral. WARNING: Do not start the bike in gear. The bike is now ready for starting. Simply turn the kill switch to ON position, then press the starter button until you hear the engine sound, meaning that the bike is started. You will also see the tachometer rises to the idle speed. Caution: Do not press the starter button for too long, release it as soon as your hear the engine sound.greatstudyabroad.com/upfiles/editor/files/96-yamaha-virago-750-manual.pdf Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 4: Practice With Clutch This section will help you get familiar with clutch operation and friction zone. First pull the clutch lever in, then use your left foot to shift down to first gear, and then slowly release the clutch lever, and at the same time gradually roll on the throttle. Now the bike should start moving and you can release the clutch all the way and give a little more throttle. You may stall the bike during this process and it's very common for beginners to stall. There's no need to panic. Simply find the neutral gear, and then start the bike, and repeat the steps above to get the bike going. Caution: Once the bike exceeds the walking speed, you should put your feet on the foot pegs. Dragging your feet down can cause potential danger. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 5: Upshift and Downshift After practicing starting and riding in first gear, we will now move on to upshift and downshift. Note: First gear is usually used for starting the bike and slow speed maneuvering. To upshift, first roll off the throttle, then pull the clutch lever in and use your left foot to firmly press the shifter lever up, and you should feel that the gear is clicked in. Now you can slowly release the clutch and roll on the throttle simultaneously to finish the upshift. For downshift, the steps are similar. The only difference is that you will need to press down on the shifter lever instead of pressing up. Other steps are the same. Warning: Do not downshift to first gear unless for coming to a complete stop. I've attached a suggested shift point diagram from a motorcycle manufacturer, and beginners can refer to that when you start riding. After you get a feeling of shifting, you can simply decide when to shift by yourselves. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 6: Braking to a Stop When coming to a stop sign or red light, you will need to brake to a stop. If you want to slow down and stop, simply roll off the throttle and pull the clutch lever in, then gradually squeeze the front brake lever and press the rear brake lever simultaneously. Note: Ideally, your stopping force should consist of 70 front brake and 30 rear brake, so adjust your force on the levers accordingly. Caution: your left foot should touch the ground first so that you can still use rear brake if needed. Some people say that there is no need to use the rear brake, but I would definitely argue that it's wrong. Your braking power consists of both the front and rear brake. If you don't have the habit of using your rear brake, in an emergency situation, you may grab the front brake and crash. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Did you make this project.Typically lasts 3 days and worth every penny. With that certificate, you should be able to get the motorcycle endorsement, and a discount on insurance. Now I'm a happy commuter. 0 GarthBock Slatu In some states you pay a registration fee which they refund at the end of the course. Some states use old beater bikes so you will probably train on what you wont be riding when you get your first bike. My state uses old Honda's 450's and 550's. However, if you want to really learn indepth then check out a Harley Riding Academy training course. Yes they are pricey but you get to learn on a well maintained and even new Harley and a bike that will be close to what you will be riding. The course is longer and you will learn to ride a good bike.a Harley. 0 PKM Pretty sure my old bike wouldn't have liked me riding in top gear at 12mph, and that was a 125cc. Slowing with the clutch out means engine braking is helping, and you are more likely to be in the correct gear if you want to speed up again. I'm sure after beginners get the hold of shifting they will know when to shift. 0 Beachley PKM I will share this with him! I appreciate it! Post Comment Categories Circuits. Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page. Please help improve this article by introducing citations to additional sources.They may also be found in use on other light vehicles such as motor tricycles and quadbikes, go-karts offroad buggies, auto rickshaws, mowers and other utility vehicles, microcars, and even some superlight racing cars.Most modern motorcycles (except scooters) change gears (of which they increasingly have five or six) by foot lever.In some cases, including the Honda Gold Wing and BMW K1200LT, this is not really a reverse gear, but a feature of the starter motor which when reversed, performs the same function. To avoid accidental operation, reverse is often engaged using an entirely separate control switch - e.g. a pull-toggle at the head of the fuel tank - when the main gearshift is in neutral.British and many other motorcycles after World War II used a lever on the right (with brake on the left), but today gear-changing is standardised on a foot-operated lever to the left.Modern scooters were often fitted with a throttle-controlled continuously variable transmission, thus earning the term twist-and-go.This type of transmission system is known as a semi-automatic transmission.Whether wet (rotating in engine oil) or dry, the plates are squeezed together by springs, causing friction build up between the plates until they rotate as a single unit, driving the transmission directly. A lever on the handlebar exploits mechanical advantage through a cable or hydraulic arrangement to release the clutch spring(s), allowing the engine to freewheel with respect to the transmission.As the throttle is opened and engine speed rises, counterweights attached to movable inner friction surfaces (connected to the engine shaft) within the clutch assembly are thrown gradually further outwards, until they start to make contact with the inside of the outer housing (connected to the gearbox shaft) and transmit an increasing amount of engine power. This allows relatively fast full-throttle takeoffs (with the clutch adjusted so the engine will be turning near its maximum-torque rpm) without the engine slowing or bogging down, as well as more relaxed starts and low-speed maneuvers at lower throttle settings and RPMs.In a typical CVT, the gear ratio will be chosen so the engine can reach and maintain its maximum-power speed as soon as possible (or at least, when at full throttle, in a partially load-dependent system), but in a semi-auto, the rider is responsible for this choice, and they can ride around all day in top gear (or first) if they so prefer. Also, when the engine is turning fast enough to lock the clutch, it will stay fully engaged until the RPMs fall below that critical point again, even if the throttle is fully released. Below the lock-up point, partially or fully releasing the throttle can lead to the RPM falling off rapidly, thanks to the feedback loop of lower engine speed meaning less friction pressure. This toggle-like mode of operation can lead to certain characteristic centrifugal-clutch-automatic behaviour, such as being able to freewheel rapidly downhill from a standstill, with engine braking only being triggered by turning the throttle briefly (and not then cancellable without braking to quite a slow, gear-dependent pace), and lockup triggering at a lower speed with full versus minimal throttle.In unit construction the engine and gearbox share a single housing.From a sprocket on one side of the crankshaft, a chain or sprocket directly mounted to the clutch will drive the clutch, which can often be found behind a large circular cover on one side of the gearbox. The clutch is connected to the gearbox input shaft. For motorcycles with chain drive, the gearbox output shaft is typically connected to the sprocket which drives the final drive chain. Since the gears are always rotating and can only be accessed sequentially, synchromesh is not generally needed. To save space, both shafts may contain a mixture of fixed and free-spinning gears, with some gears built into the sliding parts.By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 10 No experience with manual transmission -- is shifting hard to learn? Using it properly takes more time. Would it be beneficial to try to learn how to drive a manual car before a bike. A little, but it won't make much of a difference. It just gets you used to how clutches work and acclimates you to dealing with the two new controls. No big deal either way. It's kind of odd, but honestly even a video game might be good practice (one with realistic button-operated shifting patterns). On a motorcycle, it's so stupid easy compared to say a truck, where you have to physically move the gear shifter (and remember the order the gears go in). Going 4th to 2nd? Just downshift twice. The main thing is getting used to what an engine sounds and feels like as you move through the gears, and imo I was able to get a somewhat decent grasp on how it usually goes through video games. That said, manuals are quite easy to drive in retrospect. You just have to pay attention to the engine, and probably watch the tachometer for a while. And don't rip the throttle open, especially going into second.The main difference, other than the control locations, is the friction zone on a car is usually much larger.If you take the MSF course they will teach you and you will likely have no problem with it. Their introduction to the clutch and gear changes is a good one, they help you get a feel for things early on. I grew up an automatic babby. I tried driving manual before I rode a motorcycle. I really did try. I felt like a piece of shit because it was my fathers midlife crisis mustang and had a really slick and advanced everything and I still couldn't pull it off. I kept stalling, I kept fucking up, I had no idea what I was doing. I don't think I ever took it out of third and stalled every single time I went into reverse. This was with like 4 hours of practice before I gave up because I kept stalling so much. Motorcycling was a fucking breeze. I had it down pat in less than 15 minutes. I still can't drive a manual transmission better than anything but incredibly below average for the life of me, but I don't think I've missed a beat on my bikes shifting in a long time. It's much easier on a bike, is what I'm saying, at least for me. All you need to do is to conceptually understand what's going on with a clutch and a shifter and how gearspeed works which may take a few minutes to wrap your head around but that's really it. The rest just comes naturally. So just go read up on how a clutch works and how gears work and how gearspeed works and you should be fine from there. If my dumb ass can figure it out you should be more than fine. Once you are on a bike and shift around a few times its not a huge deal. Someone mentioned it, but if you get the chance do take the MSF course. They start you from the very beginning. Getting on the motorcycle to doing U-turns (with shifting somewhere in the middle of course). Driving a stick is a useful life skill and worth learning. But I would not go too far out of your way just for this. Just be sure to learn to ride on a bike that is not too powerful. This is one of the many reasons MSF is so worthwhile. Hell MSF is worth the cost just for the fun weekend, regardless of whether or not you get your M1 or a bike. It isn't so much that riding and learning a manual transmission is that hard, for me it was just the fear of dropping the bike. In the same way I fear dropping someone's child.