e36 auto to manual swap parts list
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e36 auto to manual swap parts listMy car started its life as a well cared for Avus Blue M3 that had been in the same family since It rolled off the showroom floor. Service records jam packed a hanging file folder, from water pumps to wiper blades, if it needed something, the previous owner had it taken care of. It had fallen into a state of neglect however, and it needed some attention. With 228k miles, the car was just tired, and frankly the “slushbox” automatic was whining, taking a little longer to shift into gear each time, and I thought to myself, it was time to make some moves in getting a manual transmission into it. This isn’t the most detailed DIY out there, but it may bring insight to your project, or give just another perspective to what this takes if you are thinking about the swap. Piecing everything together is an option, but quite costly when you start breaking down the individual cost of everything. So why not just buy an entire car. Why a 328is instead of a 325. Simple, the 328i has the same transmission as the M3, which is the ZF trans (opposed to the Gertrag). While the Gertrag will bolt up to this car, I wanted the M3 to have the same equipment it would have from the factory. The ZF is also rated for a little more torque, and seems to take a beating better. I hooked onto the trailer and before I knew it, I owned a donor car. Here’s the list: I took this opportunity to upgrade a few things here and there, and replace wear and tear items while I was doing this swap. Here’s a quick list of the new parts. Donor car goes up on jack stands, remove the full exhaust, heat shield, driveshaft, slave cylinder (DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL when the slave is out of the manual transmission if you plan to re-use it), unhook the shifter assembly from the trans, unplug the reverse light harness from trans. Once everything is unhooked, the next step is a pain, getting the bellhousing bolts off.http://cyi0571.com/cyjxfiles/craftsman-17-inch-25cc-weed-wacker-manual.xml
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The top ones, are the toughest to get to, but I found an extremely long extension from harbor freight, along with a set of wobble sockets did just the trick. I found it was beneficial to put a block of wood under the front of the engine and give it a slight jack to tilt the motor downward, giving you a greater area between the transmission tunnel and the trans. It was a pain, but the knowledge gained from taking it out of the donor car will be EXTREMELY beneficial for putting it back in.Removing the pedal set from the donor car is pretty straight forward, but there are more detailed DIY’s on that subject. I will make a long list of links that I used towards the end of this post. That was an entire project on it’s own, but with some borrowed detent tools from a fellow bimmerforums member, it got done. Everything that I had previous done to the donor car had to be done on the M3. It went up on jackstands, wheels off, exhaust off, heat-shield, driveshaft, etc. The Exception was that many more parts of the interior needed to come out of the M3 to access the wiring and pedal set, along with removing the automatic shifter. You simply unscrew that factory clutch stop, and pull back that carpet. There you will see plugs in the firewall that you can push through or pop out. You will run the line from the top of the master cylinder to the nipple on the brake reservoir under the hood. You will also use another hole in the firewall for the hardline on the bottom of the master cylinder that connects to the slave. I purchased the hose from turner, it is meant to withstand the harsh conditions of brake fluid. To remove the factory automatic shift knob, you simply pull in the trigger, and pull up really hard. Be careful not to have your face right above it, and be conscious of possibly punching off your rear view mirror (seriously). It’s the larger black plug to the left about halfway up the photo.http://ehconsultores.com/userfiles/craftsman-17-inch-rear-tine-tiller-manual.xml Take the extra brake switch that you now have, because remember you bought another complete pedal set, and go ahead and put it in the switch position on the clutch pedal. You’ll need to use an exacto knife and knock off a little edge, but then it will fit fine. You wire those two wires to either the top two or bottom two terminals on that brake switch. Doesn’t matter which, just choose two. Great, now your cruise control works, and you have to push the clutch in to start the car, just like intended. That was easy. Also, you see the locking solenoid dangling by one wire to the right of the giant hole in the car. Reach under the carpet, unplug it, and throw it in the dumpster. You don’t need that junk anymore. But you’ve already done it once, so this is a piece of cake. The automatic is extremely heavy, use a transmission jack and a friend if you can. There’s a little plug on the automatic trans that you’ll need to take out, and then it gives you access to the torque converter bolts. I used a Bently Manual for this project, I highly suggest you borrow or buy one, it was a very useful and quick guide when you are wanting to know torque values or how to do something. I used it on more than one occasion, especially for questions I had regarding the automatic transmission. You probably should, since getting the transmission off isn’t a fun task. I unfortunately ran into an unforeseen time constraint with my swap and didn’t get the chance to change it, but I wish I would have for piece of mind. Also, this is a good view of where you will put in your new pilot bearing. I used some very find sand paper just to get some of the corrosion off where the bearing slides in, then a perfectly fitting socket to tap it into place. The hole has a recess in it, so you’ll know when you’ve gone in far enough with the pilot bearing. It’s the line that comes from the top right of the photo, down towards the middle. It connects to a brace on the body.http://www.jfvtransports.com/home/content/bose-ub-20-user-manual Mine didn’t have that brace so when I was done I ended up using a zip tie to secure it. I found it infinitely easier to go from the bottom of the car, and connecting the hardline that way to the bottom of the master cylinder. Many people go from inside the car out, but they end up bending the line. This took approximately 10 minutes by myself. Just run your hand along the path and get an idea of where it’s going to go. No wonder it was whining, it probably didn’t have much fluid left in it. I put the trans on a trans jack, then scooted it under the car, and slowly worked it on. The very last thing you want to do on this project is deal with a rounded or stripped bolt on top of the bell housing. I’ll be updating this post with links and part numbers, as I remember import things that may have helped me along the way too. Please don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions, and I can try to help with the right answer. To start viewing messages,So if you've done it or know about it, please chime in. I'll update this first post with all the new and relevant information. If any of this info is wrong, please let me know what I need to change. Also, how long should it take in labor hours. I've been quoted a max of four, another 10-12, and then 20 hours.About a 10 inch hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch cylinder (you know, the braided hose type that the brake fluid reservoir already uses). Clutch Fork The selecting rod stabilizing sleeve. It is a little bushing, wrapped in a metal bracket that mounts the end of the top shift linkage to the frame that stabilizes it. Shifter linkage Shifter shaft The foam in the boot and the rubber assemblies Pedal Box-clutch pedal cluster. The brake and clutch arms. Drive shaft 3:23 Differential Leather shift Boot Shift Knob This is my list.Did you get the Zionsville kit?Oh, MUST GIVE Credit to Kelly Sean from DTM, sorry if I spelled out his name incorrectly.http://iluvlocalplaces.com/images/canon-powershot-a300-manual-download.pdfI should recieve my tranny parts on WED, Ill keep u guys posted, and If all is well, then I will release the name.I might want to do this as well to my '94 325i since my auto tranny is becoming a nightmare I don't know what I left off. And don't have time to look at it right now.Now swapping an engine from one car to another, that's beyond what my tools and space will allow, so I'm having that done in a shop.If I have help I can do in just over an hour. I know BMW quotes 8 hours or so the replace one, but 20 hours. With the right tools(which every shop has, or should have) this should not even be a 10 hour job. I cannot justify how long it takes to change the pedals, and install the lines but I believe that can take 2.5 hours. Just food for thought. ChrisTake out auto-shifter console, replace with shifter boot. Remove auto-pedals, replace with manual pedals. Ta-da! No more interior modification needed.What about the automatic's Transmission Control Module (TCM). What do you do with that?Took out the 2 heat shields.Thats it so far, I will keep u posted, BTW I have 2 very good friends helping me alnog with this process.When it is out might as well get new parts here, I got the UUC stage 2 fly and M5 clutch. Shifter make sure u get it, or just buy the RE SSK, it comes with everything complete. Just make sure that you get the carrier bushing. On my 95 325, the part that holds the bushing to the car is there already, and there is a rubber boot covering the hole, so everything is there already. Your auto already has the line, but it is pluged, all you have to do is tap into it, take a look at urs, on the drivers side of the plastic master cylinder, towards the back, there is a extended peice that is pluged. This is what I got new: RE SSK octane kit RE Tranny mounts UUC stage 2 ltw flywheel M5 clutch kit red line fluids acs shift knob.Get off the sidewalk! Seems to be a big difference of opinions on this.I am in the middle of this swap on my 97 328is (should finish tonight!!!). Here's what I have to say: -You DO need a new master cylinder, it goes between the clutch pedal and the firewall (if you need one, I have an extra). -You do not need to remove the mount for the pedals, you WILL however, need a clutch pedal and a brake pedal, but they slide off rather easily. -Getting a different Diff is not a make-or-break deal. I chose to stay with my stock differential so I can have better acceleration. My top speed is not affected substancially, because does the Auto have a significantly larger overdrive than the manual? no. Im basically where I was when I left off as far as top speed goes.That included rebalancing.Hope this helps! JoeDo you know anything about this. I'll probably end up getting a used differential and driveshaft, so I can stay in 'stock' classes whenever I hit club racing (5-10 years )I am in the middle of this swap on my 97 328is (should finish tonight!!!). Here's what I have to say: -You DO need a new master cylinder, it goes between the clutch pedal and the firewall (if you need one, I have an extra). -You do not need to remove the mount for the pedals, you WILL however, need a clutch pedal and a brake pedal, but they slide off rather easily. -Getting a different Diff is not a make-or-break deal. My top speed is not affected substancially, because does the Auto have a significantly larger overdrive than the manual? no. Im basically where I was when I left off as far as top speed goes.That included rebalancing.Hope this helps! Joe I am almost done too., and what u r talking about is the clutch master cylinder.I am almost done too., and what u r talking about is the clutch master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder mounts between the clutch pedal and the firewall, and has two hoses.Digital Point modules: Sphinx-based search. How much would a good indy charge, and how much for the bits? These thngs always cost more than first anticipated. Maybe if you were doing it yourself as a winter project the costs would be managable but getting a garage to do it will definately make it uneconomical IMO (unless the car has huge sentimental signifigance or it was free). They are all messed around with or clapped out. The last decent one I saw for sale, my brother bought. However, I do see decent autos for sale regularly. You'll probably need to source an extra gearbox support as the manual box requires extra bracing up front from what I remember. The pedal box will need changing out which can be awkward - but stripping the dash out of each car will help you gain access for removal and refitting. I believe that the prop shaft is a different length, too. So this will require a swap over. Everything else should be a plug and play affair. Which to me means replacing an auto box like for like should be fairly simple in the event of a failure. Given I have done top end rebuilds on cars before, this sounds well within my skills. Touch wood my 530iA keeps going though. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 7 E36 Manual Swap: ZF to Getrag My preferred budget is around 500 bucks. If you read on, you'll understand how it might be possible(with the exception of flywheel, clutch, etc) WARNING: This thread will make your head SPIN. If you're not sitting down or are faint of heart, I would advise centering yourself. It's about to get more complicated than a 21st century marriage involving a mortgage. I will try my absolute best to make things as clear and precise, often by repeating things most of you guys would already know. Better safe than sorry. It involves lots of models and lots of years and lots of different transmissions all mashed up in one little neat, and, hopefully functional, package. PREFACE: For those who actually take the time out of their own personal lives to read this mess, comprehend it, and then contribute help and knowledge, I would like to deeply thank you all. As a teenager with a love for E36s, I find it a blessing that forums like these exist, with members of it who are willing to help out beginners like myself. Hopefully this will be a learning experience for me, which I can then later pass on my recently gained knowledge to others who need it too. I was so excited when I bought the car. It's almost my perfect, ideal E36 with the exception of the stock suspension and automatic transmission. These two things, though, can be changed. And that's what I plan on doing. Thank you. Thank you for reading, for contributing, for understanding, for CLICKING on this in the first place. It really does mean a lot. It's got an automatic, though. I knew I was going to manual swap this thing from the day I took it home, and July is my month for that. I plan on doing it by next week, or when I get all this compatibility sorted out. If this is wrong, please tell me.If you think there's any compatibility issues, let me know. It's confusing, but I'm pretty sure I got it down: If I run this getrag transmission out of a 98 323ic, I need a getrag guibo, but bolt it up to my 328is' driveshaft and diff flange. (once again, if this is wrong and you know better, correct me.) Also, if I'm bolting up a 328is driveshaft to a 323ic guibo, would I need different hardware. I don't know if I want to do this, however. I would much rather get a complete getrag driveshaft, so I don't run into balancing issues. The differential flanges are different. However, the diff flanges are easily interchangeable. I cannot find, whatsoever, the gear ratio of the differentials between the auto and the manual, and it's 100 degress outside so I'm not gonna look. If one of you guys knows the differential ratios of E36 automatics and manuals, let me know so I can plan accordingly; I'll see if I need a new differential to accommodate for the different transmission gearing (good time to install an LSD, if I can find one for cheap). If I don't I'd rather keep the stock diff right now, because I'm on a tight budget (hence swapping a free getrag instead of buying a ZF to make it more plug and play). Hopefully, those are all the conflicting issues between a ZF and Getrag in terms of putting the power to the wheels. If I missed something and find it, I'll update it. I'll find one, this shouldn't be hard. The security system shouldn't conflict if it were on a manual, but the remote start sure does. I never use it anyways, as the radio frequencies from the stock security system conflict with the aftermarket. If I lock with the aftermarket FOB, and unlock with the OEM key, the alarm goes off, and vice versa. So, I only use the key; screw the aftermarket system. The battery is dying in the FOB so I never actually use it. If, however, the wiring of this system would conflict with the manual swap (my guess would be detecting if it's in park or the brake is pressed), let me know as well. I don't see why though, since I don't use it and am fine without it. WIRING: I've spent a pretty decent amount of my life researching this, and know that the park safety switch, or whatever it's called, needs to be bypassed in order to actually work. This guide I'm using is pretty handy: However, cruise control works perfectly on my car, and I don't know if I want to part with it. Anyone know anything about how to keep cruise control, or where it's wired. I'll refer to that guide I just linked, because it talks about it but I cannot find out exactly how it works. Hydraulics: Hopefully the friend that's helping(more like doing 80 of it because he's a lot more competent with E36 transmissions and drivetrains than me) understands and comprehends the hydraulics within the manual transmission to a greater extent than I do. I do know, however, that the master cylinder reservoir, even on the automatic, has a nipple already on it for the clutch slave. There's also plastic plugs in the carpet next to the brake pedal to install a clutch pedal. Going back to the partial parts list, however, I run into the issues I foreshadowed to above. My friend who offered up his time and help with this knows the rest on how to set up the little things, and that guide I found should do most all of it as well. This, to me, is similar to many other E36 auto to manual swaps, except mine has a extra touch of German engineering in it, since I have to do a ZF to Getrag swap. And that's it! That wasn't too bad now, was it? Oh. It probably was. I'm eager to get this show on the road, so I will respond to comments fairly quickly. THANKS! -Sean TL;DR: I want to manual swap my ZF '99 328is with a 98 323ic Getrag. Help me with the swap, such as compatibility issues with guibo and driveshaft and differential flanges. Also feel free to pass knowledge down about the rest of the swap. Please, read the whole thing for all the details. Plus wont there be differences between ECU coding from auto to manual. If youre going to keep cruise youll need the manual computer with the input for clutch safety switch and brake switch.Transmission: It will bolt up to your engine. All the x5x engines have the same transmission bolt pattern (m20 engine too, although that's tilted differently). Pedals: realoem.com is your friend. I'd assume the pedal box is the same for all models, it is for the e28 (and the e34 I believe). I'd look at the part numbers for an m3 and compare to your car. Slave cylinder: get the one that's compatible with the transmission so the one you're looking at should work. When your chassis was built shouldn't matter too much. Clutch line: it looks like the second link (with the elbow at the end) matches the slave cylinder you linked to. You'll need to get a sprung center m20 clutch for a '82 528e (sachs makes one). Diff: again, look at realoem to find out what ratio you want. Also, be sure to consider the final drive ratio of your transmission, in the e34s the ZF is 1:1 5th while the Getrag is around.8 Wiring: rip that aftermarket crap out - it'll only give you headaches and you're not even using it. Cruise Control: Look at the ETM found here. I glanced at it and you may need to hook to wires together and that's it. Also, there's a clutch safety to cut CC on stock manuals. Have fun with your swap - hopefully you don't live in the rust belt. Tranny will bolt up. My only concern is the driveshaft length however you need the manual one. If that model was sold with the getrag 250g, you're peachy. Who cares about gear ratio, it will just have the shorter auto gears and will accelerate fast. Full agreement with removing security system. I ran a 325i hose on my ZF to get rid of the delay valve. Your diff ratio is 3.91. It will be very annoying to drive with the manual gearbox. Stock 328 manual is 2.93. Go find a 3.15 or 3.23 LSD from an M3. Diff flanges are easily swappable.All rights reserved Back to top. Well one of our members has graciously provided us with an AMAZING DIY on how to ditch that clunky and sad excuse for a transmission and get something a little more fun for your e36.Step 1: Jacking Car, Removing Muffler. Disconnect battery A. Get the Car Lifted and in the air. I used wheel ramps in the front and reversed them so I can take advantage of the bump so my car won’t roll.And I Left the jack on the Diff just so I can turn the diff to remove the bolts more on this later. For Most Cat-backs it’s mainly 2 Bolts by the bumper and the 4 Bolts and nuts for the center pipe where it connects to the Cats. Now put it out of the way you won’t need this for a while. C. Next oil up them old Rusty Exhaust Manifold bolts and let them marinate for a while since they may be a bit tough to break free without Oil. You should have a total of 6 lug nuts. D. Onto the removal on the Cats there should be a Center bracket with (4) 13mm bolts. Be Careful it’s a bit heavy. Now remove the Oxygen Sensor not from the cat but from where it’s mounted to the trans. Put this away with the Cat Back you won’t need it until where done putting t in your new Trans.Now loosen the 4 Bolts for the Throttle body and simply let it hang.You should see 1 Clamp in Front of the Engine and one in the back so total of (2) Loosen them. And get a container to soak up the Gas that will spew from the front. Pull on the fuel rail to pop the injectors out from the manifold and move them aside.Also remove the vent looking thing. You’ll need to do this to get to the last manifold Bolt unless you’re that good to not remove it.Once you’ve got it loose begin to pull it free and be careful to remove the connectors and vacuum hoses I taped mine so they don’t get lost in that spaghetti. Also be sure to squeeze the metal on those connectors and pull them out.First off Lets move the car around to make sure it won’t Fall give it a push side to side just. Try to do 3 at a Time then lift the rear end to spin the driveshaft to get the last 3. Now will the guibo out while you pull on the smaller section of this driveshaft and pull it out. And remove the clamps (2) rear of engine and fwd. Now remove the Shift selector Cable. C. Now you will need to remove the (3) 16mm torque Converter Bolts. If you’re facing the engine from the front it will be on the left side. Remove the rubber plug and with a breaker bar and a socket turn the engine over till you see the bolts through the hole.Now remove the 2 bolts where the mounts connect to the Trans and remove the cross member and throw it in your auto Trans crap pile. This will def add up. Now check the engine compartment and you will see the starter locate those 2 bolts that have a nut on the end (2) 16mm. Also be sure to watch out for a small 10mm type screw that will be on the opposite side of the Trans be sure to remove this (it’s on the passenger side in the middle area of the bell housing).Step 4: Brake Pedal removal, install Clutch hard-line, Manual Pedal Set. Disconnect any electrical connectors (you should see 1). Remove the (4) 13mm nuts on the firewall and (1) 13mm Bolt up top holding the pedal in place. One those are out remove the Clip that connects to the brake booster with some needle nose pliers, now remove the old pedal.Nip off the end of the Master cylinder nipple and connect your hose I also threw on a clamp. Trim some hose if you need to but not too much, I did and connect to the clutch cylinder bearing careful not to break the plastic nipple. And use a clamp.A good idea would be to have someone help guide the Hard-Line in the engine compartment fish it through under the steering column under the brake booster, but be careful not to bend it too much once you got it in the area have someone grab the line from inside the brake pedal area. Now Snap on the hard line and position the pedals bolt holes onto the brake booster being careful for the plastic nipple and hose and bolt down the pedal set and slide in the small pole into the pedal and brake booster and slide on the clip. Replace the electrical connector and you’re done. Photo of hard-Line Step 5: Center Console removal, Reverse lights, Cruise Control Wiring A. Remove the Auto shifter handle with a small Allen Wrench or equivalent then pop off the PRND321 Cover. Remove the Ashtrays and remove the screws these are holding the armrest in place. Remove the E-brake BOOT and lift the armrest and begin pulling out the plastic (Again Remember to save those screws!)Mine was a bit smaller so I used some Electric tape to fatten up the end. C. Clean out the crankshaft hole and make sure it’s free from debris. So finish off with a Socket that will fit around the outer metal edge of the bearing and a Small extension 24mm worked fine the. D. Now it’s Time to Prep the Flywheel and pressure plate. I used CRC Brake Kleen to get rid of all the crud since it was used. But if new no problem. Notice the ring on the crank you will see a Notch in back of the flywheel make sure you mark up the hole and get it back in there. I put some masking tape on the clean area so I don’t have to clean it again but I guess you can clean it again under the car it up to you. NOTE before you put on the Flywheel get that metal gasket and put it on first. E. Now it’s time for the mounting you will need to get your NEW flywheel Bolts since you’re AT FW Bolts are much too short and they recommend getting new ones. Now if you have the tool they cool all I used was some sheet metal I bent up to keep the flywheel from turning. Torque the bolts in a Star Formation to 77.4 Ft Lbs. I numbered them with a marker so I don’t lose my place. F. Now grab your Clutch and tool. The Disc only goes in one way Long side to the motor as shown most clutch plates will have it printed on it. Slid it into the pilot bearing it will hang a bit but don’t worry it will straighten up one the pressure plate goes on so do that now. Good idea would be to buy these new. Hand Tighten these down holding the clutch disc as centered as possible. Now torque to 18.5 ft-lbs in a star rotation. First get one side in and push the other all should snap in. Now a bad idea to setup your shifter as well. B. Prepare your Trans for install. Now Put it all together and use your choice of grease some use lithium some use regular bearing. Just make sure it’s a light coat since it could splatter while rotating and contact the clutch disc. Note: Make sure to order a metal Pivot ball since it will last longer. C. Now is where you will need to have patience and a good amount of strength. Be sure your tranny is in Neutral. Get you manual Trans under the car. You will need to jack up the front of the engine and tilt it as far back as you can. Now get the trans as close and you can top the pressure plate without it touching and jack it up to the point where it looks aligned to the engine snug it in and move the rear shaft for the trans so u can line it up to the splines on the clutch disc and lift and push its should mate with the engine flat. Now slug fit the lower bolts and now check the top dowel pin by the starter and make sure that’s in ( I had trouble here) now throw in all those bolts please not you will have to buy a few since At bolts are shorter than MT here is what they looks like.(Refer to Real Oem exploded parts view for Pn’s) Now will be a good time to connect the Stainless steel clutch line. ( note the bend goes toward slave) D. Now that’s the Trans is in and you got the start bolts you can put your intake manifold back together. E. Now put on the Trans cross member and bushings. (I put the bushings on first and tightened them up then I mated it to the chassis and Trans). And connect your reverse lights connector you made while you’re at it. And just be sure the cable is out of the way of any parts that will be rotating. F. Once the Trans is up go ahead and install the shift linkage you will need the selector rod, 1 bearing bolt, 4 plastic washers and the 2 locking clips. Now put it all together I put a tad amount of grease on the pins too. Now is a good time to put your interior back together. Well I did since I needed a rest from being under the car so much. Also the under dash will need to modify for the new pedal you just added.